Are We There, Yet?!!

Pheriche to Namche

12:12 AM:  Woke up thirsty.  I had a peaceful sleep.  My room smells like rosemary mint tea (did my shampoo leak?).  Since I have a corner room, I only have one neighbor to my right and there are no sounds of snoring next door.

3:00 AM:  Woke up thirsty again…

6:00 AM:  Knock at the door.  Sherpa tea and a bowl of hot wash water.

7:00 AM:  On my way to breakfast, Annie took me aside to ask about yesterday’s reaction to the change of plans.  I said that we all felt surprised because we were told the reward for yesterday’s push to get to Pheriche would be a short day today, only to find we’re having another long day.

During med check, Annie informed me that I was considered when she and Ted were making the decision for the long day.  Annie told Ted, “Judy’s not weak.  She’s just slow – and that’s okay.”  Annie continued, “Just go at your own pace; take in the view.  Ted may be four hours late himself.”  Ted has been under the weather for about a week.  I heard him coughing during most nights.

Annie asked me if I packed snacks.  I admitted I forgot to refill my daypack.  Annie instructed me to go outside, have the Sherpas find my duffel and get some out.  Then she handed me two packs of glucose biscuits (cookies).

I went outside to the Sherpas feeling silly asking for my duffel to retrieve day snacks when I already had two packs of cookies in my hand.  Ming asked, “What are you doing?”  I sheepishly replied, “Annie sent me to find my bag to get out some snacks.  Oh, never mind, she already gave me two packs of cookies.”  As I turned to walk away, I saw Annie looking out of her second floor room’s window, tapping the glass.  As she opened the window, Ted shouted in jest, “Aw quit whining!”  Annie shouted, “It’s not alright to starve yourself today to pig out tomorrow!”  Ming immediately ordered the Sherpas to find my duffel.  After opening several duffel bag covers, my duffel bag was located.  I pulled out three bars, waved them to Annie before I sat down for breakfast of toast with two poached eggs, and shared half a toast with chunky peanut butter from Lily.

8:00 AM:  Head out after Ming’s map review.  With Dakar’s assistance today, we trekked over two mountains with various rough terrain. I dressed for weather like yesterday, which I quickly found was too much.  I stopped twice to peel off a layer.

11:20 AM:  Arrived at the nunnery for lunch.  Lunch menu:  Cream of mushroom soup, Tibetan bread with a hot dog and potato salad.  The entire group stood up to leave as I was still eating my bread, so I wrapped my bread up and slipped it into my front pack.

Dakar made sure I drank water regularly.  At one point, I ran out of water.  We opened my backpack to check the Camelback insert.  Dakar said, “Nothing.”  I replied, “Nothing?! That never happens!”  We both laughed.

At a little town along the trek, we met up with Annie, Sharon and Tim.  Ted was behind me.  I asked if this town was the tea and biscuit place.  Annie replied, “Yes; two more hours.”  I told them of my finishing my water a little earlier (two liters is an accomplishment for me).  The Sherpa carrying extra water had already left.  Sharon helped me purchase a two liter bottle of water from the General store.  Dakar refilled my Camelback.

Dakar and I passed through another little village.  Having consumed so much water, I told Dakar I needed a toilet.  Dakar asked a local woman for a toilet.  The local woman pointed to a clump of trees on a nearby hill.  Climbing up the steep brush-covered hill, I made my way to the trees only to find a foot path behind it with workmen in the vicinity.  Well, I’d gone this far…My body must have gotten “stage fright”, because it refused to release, so I came out to patiently waiting Dakar, who was chatting with a local male.  I said, “Nothing.  Let’s go.”  The local male led me to an outhouse with “For hotel guests only” painted on the steel door.  Dakar checked it out then gestured I use it.  I did with success.

Approximately 3:00 PM:  Annie radioed Dakar to check on how I was coming along.  Dakar handed me the radio.  I informed Annie that we had reached the tea and biscuit place and saw Ted, Sharon, Tim and possibly Annie leaving.  When we reached the restaurant, a Sherpa began pouring tea.  I pointed to my wrist, shaking my head and saying, “We don’t have time.”  The Sherpa and Dakar said not to worry, pushing air down with both hands to tell me to sit down.  I insisted that Dakar have tea and biscuits (crackers, in this case) with me.  Two big black ravens hung out eyeing my crackers.  Not ten minutes later, it began to sprinkle.  We put on our rain gear and headed out.

When I drank water from the Camelback, Dakar taught me that “water” was “panni”.  I also learned “please” was “teets-cha”.  Dakar also taught me “good” was “teets-za” and “no good” was “teets-china”.  At one point, I looked down the path and, seeing yaks coming up, said, “Oh-oh.  Yaks.  Teets‑china.”  We had a good laugh as we scrambled up the side of the hill to give the yaks room to pass us.  I love the sound of the yak’s brass bells around their necks.  They sound like wind chimes stirred by a breeze.

Annie checked in with us a few more times, perhaps every half hour.  When I informed her we were passing the village stupa, Annie said, “You’re only 10 to 15 minutes away.”  After more than 15 minutes and several bends of the mountain, I wondered which stupa she thought I was passing.  Annie called again to say, “Welcome to Namche.”  I couldn’t see her, but we were behind some lodges, so I replied, “I think we’re behind the lodge.”  Dakar kept walking.  He stopped and pointed to a lodge in the distance saying, “We go there.”  [Whimper – we’re not there, yet – whimper.]

Approximately 6:00 PM:  Approaching the back of the lodge, I spotted Frank, Craig and Annie clapping a welcome for me.  Annie took a few photos.  At the lodge’s entrance, Ming greeted me with a handshake and hug.  He’d assigned Room 11 to me.  The proprietor followed me into my room, turned on the sink faucet to let the hot water reach my room – for a hot shower!  Lily stopped by to congratulate me for reaching the lodge.  I announced to Lily, “Don’t expect me for tea.  I’m taking a hot shower!” 

After a lukewarm shower, out of habit, I applied face cream, remembering the pre-dinner hot washcloths too late.

7:15 PM:  I arrived (last) for dinner to another round of applause.  I gave a smile with an embarrassed wave off before sitting down next to Ted.  Another wonderful feast from our chef:  Cream of mushroom soup, yak meat pizza, roasted potatoes, garlic pasta shells, green beans and peppers.

Lily, Chelli, Bob and I hung out in the dining room until about 9:15 pm.

Lily visited with me in my room for a while, talking to me from under the covers of the spare bed – just like a slumber party.  After Lily left, I updated my journal.

At 10:45 PM/10:00 AM PST, I thought of the kids, who would be in school about now.  Curious they didn’t respond to my first email, especially Michelle, who gets Gmail message alerts on her phone and Marie’s on-line at all hours.

It began to rain about 10:40 PM.  I can hear raindrops on the tin roof.

11:35 PM now.  All caught up journaling.  Tomorrow we shop (weather permitting) and get some laundry done.  G’Nite.